Hot Dogs of Sagada

It is hard not to notice the dogs in Sagada. Although they were not tied (read: mukhang asong gala), most of them are lean and toned. No skinny ones. 

These dogs are used to climbing stairs and going up and down the hill - the most likely reason of the toned physique. Hot sila. Kaya Hot Dog. 


Ngi!



They are also very friendly and are used to people. While we were waiting for a ride to Bomod-ok, a dog just approached us and kept us company in exchange for a head pat and fur brush.

I christened him Biggie.



A huge one.

He was with us for an hour and even accompanied us to the jeepney. I was hoping it will ride the jeep with us. I adopted him for the duration of our stay.

They're generally hairy, to better protect them from the cold(?).



A guide asked me why I keep on taking photos of dogs. I told him I love dogs. He aptly warned me that people from Sagada don't keep them as pets. They can be a food source. Person A asked where he can get one (I won't join him), some restaurants serve it on Wednesdays.

I don't agree with the practice but I respect the culture.

Heres another toned dog.



Person A keeps on teasing me that instead of naming the dogs Biggie, Brownie, Hairy, Smiley, just name them Stewy, Curry, Grilly, Roasty... or Wednesday.

Just for kicks.

He loves dogs too and would just love to see me frown and give him the stare.

A calm one



And an extra friendly dog at Masferre Inn



Here's a rug.



And a huge jet black Lab.



Guess who showed up at the bus station to bid us goodbye.

Biggie!



We were so happy to meet him at 6 in the morning. I even brought bread just in case he'll show up. I am missing you now dear.

Hope to meet you when I get back and hope you make more travelers happy.

Bomod-Ok: The Big 'Falls

I never get easily amazed by waterfalls. Having grown up in the province, waterfalls have been around all my life and I had even bathed in a few. More often than not, when people say there's a waterfalls, it's a teeny weeny one, only a few feet drop. I wasn't so ecstatic checking off Bomod-ok Waterfalls, thinking it's another one of those a-few-feet-drop of water. I've been to Bokong (small falls) a few days before and I find it okay, pretty in its own way. With some time to spare, Person A and I decided to check out what the buzz is all about the big falls; my friends who have been to Sagada suggested not to miss it. 

The jump off point to Bomod-ok is in Banga-an or Aguid, 5kms and 8 kms away, respectively, from the town proper. You can opt to walk (about an hour) or take the jeep to Aguid (20 minutes) for PhP 20. Jeep leaves every hour up to 3PM. The last trip from Aguid is at 1:30, hence it is best to visit the falls in the morning or you can rent a jeep at PhP 500 one way or walk back to the town proper. The last option is only feasible if your legs are not yet battered from days of adventure. 

We decided to stop at Banga-an, being the more popular jump off point. If you opt for an easier descent to the rice terraces, I suggest you choose the Aguid path. We registered at the Information Center and paid PhP 500 for a guide. There is a separate association from Sagada, hence don't get a guide until you reach Banga-an/Aguid. 

Here's our guide Manong Randy. He provided us with staffs and is kind enough to show us interesting finds along the path to the falls. 

To get to the rice terraces, you'll descend several steps passing through a small village. Then the trek on the rice terraces begins.

The view is expansive, awesome and breathtaking.

Along the way, there are traditional rice storage facilities and our guide ushered us into one with an unused coffin. Afraid! 

According to our guide, the coffin is made of pinewood and is prepared by the family to be hung in one of the burial sites in the area. Outsiders are not allowed to view the site.

You also get to view a small scale mining operation on the other side of the terraces. The locals are mining gold. Pyrite, fools gold, are sold along the path for PhP 20 a rock. 

The trek is about an hour so if you get tired, there are residents selling beverages. Don't fret, unlike Manila, the commodities are not overpriced. PhP 45 for a bottle of gatorade. Not bad.

Let me show you a picture of a jolly carabao. This water buffalo is responding to the call of our guide.

You know your near the falls when you begin to see big river boulders on tiny streams. The big falls provide irrigation to the Aguid rice terraces. 

Just before the you get a full view of Bomod-ok, you'll pass by a hanging bridge. It connects two cliffs and is at least 50-meter deep at the bottom. The bridge is also damaged hence I was actually telling Person A that I am scared when this photo was snapped. 

Presenting Bomod-ok.

The water falls from a height of 200 meters. The smaller waterfalls make the picture more majestic. The setting is also canyon-like - really magical. Even if you're some meters away from the falls, you'll feel its strength by the sound it makes and the water sprays. The water is also freezing although if you come from the hour-long hike, it is a welcome respite. 

The waterfalls has a small pool at the bottom that is waist-deep. The pool is perfect for swimming! That tiny dot half-submerged in the water is me. The dip was so soothing. On the left side is a small waterfall - about 3 meters and would provide a good water massage. 

Person A and I love Bomod-ok. We will come back, head out early in the morning, bathe in the pool, enjoy a picnic basket, read a book before going back to Sagada. 

In Summary

1. Bomod-ok Waterfalls is a majestic destination. It is good to linger a bit in the area. Bathe in the pool, take photographs, have a picnic and enjoy the sound and sprays of the big falls. The rice terraces on the way to the falls is picturesque. The path is not difficult save for the hour-long walk.

2. With the relatively easy trail, everyone can easily conquer the path. Just don't head out during the peak season as it can get too crowded. 

Sumaguing Cave Sagada

Sagada's peaks hide gems underneath: it is home to around 60 caves that have impressive stalagmite formations and crystals adorning the draping stalactites. 

A trip to Sagada will not be complete without exploring Sumaguing Cave: the most accessible among the town's caves. Sumaguing has everything a cave has to offer: a difficult descent, bats and the guano they excrete, beautiful stalagmite formations and big enough pools to swim in. I find the chamber extremely wonderful that if you enjoyed Puerto Princesa's Underground river, you should not miss this cave. Lonely Planet couldn't agree more that Sumaguing Cave was included in Best Adventure Travel Destination in 2009. The only one from the Philippines. 

Allow me to share with you our Sumaguing adventure.

Trip starts at the Tourist Information Center where we hired a guide. 

For PhP 600 for a group of 4, the guide will ensure that you're safely navigating the cave, serves as your personal information expert and will provide your much needed assistance as you descend the cave. They're worth every penny you paid for.

On a side note, you have two options to explore the caves of Sagada:

1. Basic Sumaguing Cave. The easier between the 2 options: easier descent and the highlight are the formations inside the Sumaguing Cave. It costs PhP 600 and takes about 1.5 hours.

2. Cave Connection. You'll be traversing two caves. Above average spelunking skills required. Swimming in neck deep water and getting into tight spaces are necessary. It costs PhP 800 and takes 4 hours. You might see some of the interesting formations but the highlight of this option is the spelunking experience.

We got the first one, because we're after the formations. We did not regret it. It is already difficult as it is.

The cave is a few kilometers away from the town center. 

If you are not bringing your own transportation, motorized commuting is non-existent, hence you have to walk on concrete road for around 30 minutes. No worries, there are a lot of gorgeous views along the way. 

Limestone cliffs. Proof that Sagada was once underwater.

If you prefer it, the fee comes with a stopover at the Lumiang burial cave. The last time this cave has been used was in 1986 and is one of the few burial sites that visitors are allowed. Some of the coffins are already petrified and expect to see some bones.

You also get a good view of the rice terraces in Dagdag. 

From the roadside, this is the mark to the cave.

Then you descend some steps before you get to the mouth of the cave. 

Your guide then lights up the Petromax, your 360-degree light source inside the dark cave. You have to make sure that your hands are free and ready to get yourself wet at least knee-deep (and swim). Please ensure as well that you have a non-slippery footwear on.

For non-spelunkers, this is a difficult descent. If you are not physically fit and you do not enjoy getting yourself dirty, please don't attempt getting inside the cave. You will end up whining and the other adventurers will just find you annoying. You've been warned.

First part of the descent is carved steps. Then it gets dark wherein you have to do some basic rock descent on moist loam and rocks. It's steep and heart stopping. Just don't panic and keep calm. Then you get to the bat cave. Bats on the ceiling and guano on the rocks. Guano is slippery and you have to hold on to rocks with bat dung. No complaining please. Either that or you fall deep. 

At this point, a lot of spelunkers give up. Please don't. It gets easier and prettier. The rocks change to white granite and you begin to encounter small pools of cool water. I was in awe. 

The granite-like rocks are very slippery.

We did a bit of rappelling. I was and am never good at it. 

Then the beauty of the cave reveals itself. Beautiful stalagmite formations. These sandstones have very good traction. No reason to slip.

An interesting one. Our guide stopped us and took this photo before pointing what it is.

There's the turtle.

The cake.

The King's Curtain. 

A cool (freezing, actually) pool where I was enticed to swim dip - the bigger one. If you're not too cold, do swim in the pools. Prepare a change of clothing so that you won't catch pneumonia on your walk back to town. 

These formations are the reason why you should explore Sumaguing cave. The rocks also feel nice to the feet. It provides very good traction and just the right amount of roughness to slough off dry skin. Shhh.... that's our secret. Just be subtle when you start rubbing your foot on the rocks, you might freak everyone out.

More importantly, the stalagmites and pools are breathtaking. 

In Summary

1. Sumaguing Cave is a must-visit when you're in Sagada. You will enjoy it if you love nature, thirsty for adventure, doesn't mind getting dirty, and you can appreciate stalagmites and stalactites. To be honest, I find it as beautiful as Puerto Princesa's Underground River. Its strength is you can actually touch the formations - one thing you can't do in Puerto Princesa. You can also swim in the freezing water. 

2. Given its difficulty, it is best enjoyed by anyone who is physically fit, meaning those who can do basic rock climb, strong thighs for leg support and don't panic on the sight of 20-feet ravine. It is best enjoyed with company: special someone, friends and family. Please don't bring kids who require supervision and who are not up for the physical requirement. You will just end up getting a heart attack. Also, if you have anyone above 50, please make sure they are up for the challenge lest you leave them behind: we encountered one on our way up.

3. Avoid the peak season. I heard it gets really crowded during the holy week and I don't think you can enjoy it with the people around. It is best enjoyed with the silence of the surrounding and minimal chatter of friends.